| West Wight Potter Owner's Home Port Sailing Stories Want to share your sailing story? ____________________________________________________________________ |
Anne J. Westlund
Box 129, 475 N. Division St.
DeTour Vlg, MI 49725
(906) 297-6802
westlund@sault.com
CIRCUMNAVAGATING AN INLAND,
SWEETWATER SEA
IN A FIFTEEN FOOT BOAT
Anne Westlund in her green hull West Wight Potter 15 "Peapod".
More people on the web knew I was planning my trip than did the folks in the village. They would have
thought I was nuts! I did it anyway and enjoyed the entire twenty-nine day voyage covering about 400
nautical miles of shoreline and open waters in my West Wight Potter 15, Peapod, and I
circumnavigated the North Channel of Lake Huron in July 2002. We saw sunshine, winds, storms,
bears, raccoons, herons, gulls, terns, osprey, bald eagles, jillions of songbirds and freighters. We
visited many bays, coves, river mouths, islands, shorelines, beaches and swimming holes. Six villages
and cities were visited. And, the trip was followed within mere days by a long sea kayak trip visiting an
area in Georgian Bay that turned out to be where we would like to sail the summer of 2003.
A review of the log of the Peapod shows there is little need to go back to see what is so clearly etched
in my mind. The sunny-bright summer days are greatly appreciated when you are north of 46 degrees
latitude. Summer often comes late and can be cold. In 2002 July presented itself as the first of the
warm days and sunshine abounded. Launched at the DeTour Village ramp area, Peapod was afloat
alone in the quiet of a very early July 1st morning. Light southerly breezes poured over the wall and
down into the slip. I walked back to her after taking my car and trailer home the two blocks up the slope
knowing that I was not allowed to leave them at the ramp area over the twenty-four hour grace period.
The ramp area has lots of parking and two free, deep-water launch ramps side-by-side with a dock
between. Leaving the car and trailer at home at no cost avoided other storage costs yet left the car
easily accessible on my return at the end of July. My trip was planned for the month - time for a trip of
exploration and visitation to one of the most beautiful areas to sail in the entire world.
Peapod was loaded with a minimum of clothing, food for several weeks in dry and tinned forms plus
fresh fruits, potatoes and onions. Boat gear included three anchors and 1/2 inch twisted nylon lines,
each having five or six feet of 3/8 chain pennants, four dock lines, two twenty-five footers and two
fifteen feet long, three bumpers (two tiny and one larger I found while sea kayaking in June), a large
first aid kit, personal toilet kit, folding bucket, hard shell bucket, cooking kit (stove, fuel, pots, pans as
for backpacking), polar tec blanket, winter weight sleeping bag, pillow, pillowcase, Thermarest camping
pad and covering case for a sheet, throw line, life vests - one inflatable and one I normally use while
sea kayaking, a foul weather pants and jacket set, sun hat, fleece hat and gloves, and so on. Of course
there was also the handheld VHF radio, a mini EPIRB, an SOS cell phone, flares, a bivy sack, signal
flags, mirrors, whistles, fire starter, matches and lighters.
In the West Wight Potter weight carried forward is best yet as a whitewater canoeist I like to keep the
bow and stern buoyant as much as possible, therefore my packing system aboard the boat. I put the
personal toilet kit and clothing forward in their duffel along with the blanket, pillow and sleeping bag.
Since I sleep to port the camping pad goes there with it's sheet on it. Also to port during the day goes
the grab bag - a waterproof gear bag used often for sea kayaking or canoeing. It has the safety gear
and electronics in it. The waterproof book bag goes there during the day too, plus the battery operated
running lights (portable style). Tools are on the portside under the cockpit seats. On the starboard are
the stern anchor, a Super Max 10# and its chain and line, the food bin, charts, companionway
washboards, bucket, cleaning supplies, camera, binoculars, foul weather gear, fleece pullover. Other
miscellaneous stuff is stored under the cockpit seat.
The trip:
Years ago I had sailed the North Channel in a 33 ft. sloop several summers. This year, 2002, it was to
be an entirely different sort of trip. I was going solo. No passengers or crew, no other boats sailing in
tandem. At the dock I turned Peapod around facing downwind, cast off and raised the jib. Slowly
underway I waited and raised the mainsail when clear of the narrow rock-lined channel avoiding the
surfacing portions of the Niagara Escarpment reaching out for my little boat. The clear water showed
me the shoals with color changes and reflected bottom structures. The main up and clear, I sailed off
across DeTour Passage with a beam wind and small sea. Peapod leapt to the challenge and scooted
across the mile of shipping lanes. A freighter was in front of us for a few photos and then was gone
down the lakes carrying taconite or grains. I listened to the VHF radio for a bit to see if I could find out
their destination: Montreal. Clearing the Passage and Black Rock Point I was soon alongside Sims
Point and rounded the buoy set off shore about half mile. Sometimes I cut that corner but only when the
sun is overhead for good in-the-water visibility. The clear waters of this region telegraph the depths
quite well.
Carrying on easterly I passed between several islands. There was little wave action and the wind was
freshening. My little West Wight Potter 15 scooted along at hull speed or higher. Soon I was eight miles
from home port and at Harbor Island. I decided that with favorable winds I would go on to Pilot Cove.
That would make a day's sail of some 28 miles. Off shore wind would urge me down the shoreline to
the little hook, Pilot Cove, at Marble Head on the very east end of the island. A north-bound downwind
sail took me around Chippewa Point on the north end of Drummond Island and along it's geologically
interesting north and east sides. I was soon out of the area of over 50 islands and out in the North
Channel waters proper. To the north is Ontario, Canada. To the south, Drummond Island, to the east
huge Manitoulin Island and behind me, the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Under me: sweetwater seas,
potable water off shore, clear as crystal and warm enough to swim in (near shore). No other boats of
any kind were in sight.
I had seen no other boats all morning by the time I rounded the little gravel spit into Pilot Cove by 1530
hrs where I dropped the stern hook and drifted into the tight bight of the cove where I stepped off into
some eight inches of water, carried the bow anchor to land and set it. Tied off I was home for the night.
I grabbed my towel and made quickly for the stony shores of the bigger waters where I stripped and
swam off the sweat of the day.
Lolling in the water was delightful. The first swim of the season. The water was crisp and felt very good
on my sun enhanced skin. Even with sunscreen, a hat and sun protection clothing I had gotten quite a
bit in the seven hours of sailing. After toweling off the awning went up, curving over the cockpit like a
wagon cover from the old days going west. Two PVC pipe poles kept the awning in shape while bungie
cords tied it down on each corner to the aft cleats and the mid-ship's cleats. I wrote up the log, read for
awhile, took food and cook kit ashore to the stone beach and prepared my supper. This was followed
by some shoreline hiking and watching another sailboat come into the bay where it anchored. I was
incredulous! I had Pilot Cove all to myself and so it stayed the entire night. Before turning in I removed
the awning so I could sleep if winds got up in the night, and I pulled Peapod out into deeper water,
letting off the bow anchor line and tightening up on the stern anchor. Hopefully I was secure from
raccoons or bears, mice or voles, shrews or ants; I turned in to sleep peacefully through the night.
The next day was a short one. I crossed the False DeTour Passage to Cockburn Island and sailed the
anchor in at the south end of the bay with the beautiful sandy shoreline. I had passed several tug boats
beautifully decked out in holiday gear. One of them had been the winner in the annual tugboat races in
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario the day before. My anchor down in the clear, warmer water was my invitation
to swim and loaf. The awning flapping in the moderate off shore breeze, I swam and read the afternoon
away. A hike along the curving bay gave me some exercise. By late afternoon the winds were brisk and
promised to quiet down for tomorrow. I turned in early after the sunset over the ghost town village of
Tolsmaville.
On July 3rd I sailed the dreaded Missassagi Passage between Cockburn and Manitoulin Islands. It did
not live up to its reputation. However the seas were running around 3-4 ft high and the winds shot up
the channel forcefully. I sailed the distance to Manitoulin with a reef in the main and a carefully held
loose mainsheet that I could ease as needed in the beam seas and steady winds. The quick crossing
led me to the first cape of the island where I was soon into Meldrum Bay to clear customs with a phone
call. Receiving my cruise number, I cast off and ran north with the off shore breezes again and some
incredibly fast sailing. The true wind was more southwest than southerly and when around Vidal Point I
had some fast sailing in flat waters along the shoreline. Screaming along would be the proper
description. I anchored in the west part of the bay near a little stream that came from beaver ponds up
river. The water was hot and I took a hot soak, and rinsed in the refreshing waters of the bay. Again,
some beach combing was my exercise. And, again I found shards of blue and white pottery, evidence
of the long time use of the waterways of the North Channel.
The next day, the Fourth of July, flag up, I sailed on into the entrance of Bayfield Sound, a large pocket
into Manitoulin Island from the north. It is broad and open, dotted with some islands toward the east
side. On the west are large drumlins and wooded hills. Some old farms dot the hillsides with open
pastures. Huge cottonwood trees can be seen along with big birch trees, old split rail fences and
occasional tumble down buildings. Deep into the sound a new log home was being raised next to a
creek spilling into a wee cove. Tempted as I was to anchor there, I crossed the sound on a quick
downwind scoot and went into Sturgeon Cove where I anchored amid large limestone rocks in
turquoise waters. On shore were herons, old fences and evidence of the cattle that used to roam there.
A large house on shore to the west side of the cove seemed occupied. I was a good half-mile away and
felt like I had my own private anchorage. I settled in with a good book and spent a windy though quiet
afternoon.
On July 5th I flew my ratty old American Flag again and waited out some stiff winds from the south,
resting and loafing, reading and napping and staying put. On the 6th I weighed anchor early. It
promised to be a long day. Again the winds were southerly but now carried humidity and haze was
settling in. Heat would come and then at a later time, rain and storms. I sailed northeast around the
huge northerly point on Manitoulin's Barrie Island in the mouth of Bayfield Sound and bore east toward
Little Current. The day sailed by. Peapod romped along with the wind abaft a'beam and the seas
gradually increased to 2-3 ft. as we entered more open waters. Toward early evening I determined I
could go through the La Cloche Passage and anchor near Clapperton Island somewhere. That would
set me up for an early arrival in Little Current where I wanted to find some fresh produce and an ice
cream cone. I found that Mowat Island offered protection way up in the north section. I tucked into three
feet of water in reeds, dropped the stern hook and hung there for the night. As I eased into the reeds I
could see 30 or 40 Sandhill Cranes on the spit, walking sedately through the shoreline's weeds and
grasses. They slowly walked into the forested island out of sight. Later as it got really dark I heard their
strange calls echo around the waters. Far in the distance were other masts moving with the winds.
They were in the true Clapperton anchorage. I was in my own space.
Being on a tiny boat the North Channel opened up to me. Privacy in anchorages, larger feeling waters,
more intimate visits along the shores, much simple living and easier handling of gear and boat. I could
go into 6-8 inches of water, tuck into spaces between rocks or into pocket beaches, get off the main
channels and enjoy doing what I love to do: beach cruise. I enjoy the margins. The edges between
water and land are full of wildlife, plants and interesting stuff, from driftwood to frogs and crawfish. The
margins are filled with diverse species that may shelter elsewhere but come to the edge to drink, or
leave the edge to feed, or find the margins home. Although I have sailed off-shore I have the most
desire to enjoy the shallows, the edges, the margin where life abounds.
On the 7th day I sailed into Little Current and came to rest at Spider Bay Marina. There are little finger
piers in shallower water for little boats like mine, inexpensive dock fees, good hot, clean showers,
toilets, lounge and a laundry. All kinds of fuel are available also as is deep water dockage for huge
yachts. The sailor who were moored on the pier where I tied Peapod were very curious about this little
green hulled boat. As a result of the comments, "What a cute boat! What is she? Where did you come
from?" I made new acquaintances who were soon to become good friends. They took me under their
wings as if I were a teenager instead of a 61 year old woman. Sailing solo I find I meet lots more people
than when I am with a friend. And, the little West Wight Potter was an attraction in and of itself. Larry
and Claire Jennings took me shopping for groceries and we enjoyed a meal together that night. Stormy
weather threatened and I ended up staying overnight. It was the first time in a marina for Peapod as we
usually anchor out.
In the morning I walked up into Little Current and breakfast at a local restaurant in the hotel on the main
street. Claire and Larry were there and gave me a ride back to the marina. Shortly after that when I was
done rigging the awning down tightly, the sky was black and heavy with clouds to the southwest and
west, oozing wind threats and heavy rain. The air took on a calm and a wait - a wait for the weather
coming in. Larry asked me if I would like to weather the storm in their sailboat's enclosure, a large
trailerable they keep in Little Current all summer. They come up from Indiana and have a summer slip
at the marina. They call the boat, Eluthera, their cottage.
As the winds gathered and stuff flew all over the marina - sand, small stones, a few huge raindrops,
some scraps of paper - lightning began to flash brightly in the west. Big, deep peels of thunder echoed
from what seemed a long distance away. Making sure that my boat was really secure, no chafe
problems imminent, I left her for Eluthera. I was not at all sure I should, however with my foulies
available under my arm I knew I could go make sure she was okay if I felt uneasy. As it was, I intuitively
felt it was okay.
The hard thunder and lightning rainstorm and high winds didn't last too long. However, the power went
out and stayed out for over six hours. No fuel could be pumped and no one moved. A few boats came
in from outlying islands and docked to wait for the electricity to come back on. All was darkness for
hours as the rains pelted and then steadily poured. We found out later on that tornadoes had touched
down elsewhere on the island. Peapod rode the storm like a trouper with no evidence of leaks or
dampness below. I had closed the top hatch but not the washboards. There was no water below. The
awning held like battleship paint. All was well. One of the nice things about a lower aspect, little boat is
lower windage. A lower mast helps too. The vane on the masthead spun and pointed stiffly but there
seemed no evidence of heeling as we watched from Eluthera a couple of slips east of Peapod. With
encouragement and a low cost slip, I stayed another night at the marina. We went out for dinner to the
hotel again and a long walk along the quay which lines the waterfront. Little Current caters to yachts of
all sizes and kinds. It is a great place to provision, meet and leave passengers, and to watch the
endless summer parade of boats moving to and from points east and west. Farquarer's ice cream
cones from the stands along the wooden walkway are to be savored as a North Channel delicacy.
Sailing east under the bridge that spans the passage I worked my way to the Mary Islands where I
explored a wrecked barge and then down to Haywood Island to anchor for the night. I poked into the
shallows of a 'tween island reed bed and enjoyed bug free breezes all night. The next day I continued
easterly into Baie Fine and anchored there for another night. I went in about five miles but not into the
pool for I heard it was full of boats. I wanted to go elsewhere anyway and continued on into MacGregor
Bay which is full of islands and is a piloting challenge. The rocks, small, old summer cottages and
wildlife are what makes it interesting. A couple invited me for tea and I enjoyed meeting them. They
come from Ann Arbor to the old cottage each summer and are the third generation owners. I spent two
nights in the MacGregor Bay islands before going into Birch Island for fuel. Motoring seems to be the
way to get around in the islands, the safest way. The little Honda 2hp, 4-stroke doesn't burn much fuel
but I don't carry much either.
Things I learned:
I learned how much gas per hour I used. I learned how far I could motor in a day easily on flat water. I
learned how long I was willing to sit at the helm and motor or sail in a day. I learned how far I could sail
in a day (not beating into winds and waves). And I learned how to take it slow yet I covered lots more
ground a great deal faster than I had thought possible. I could have gone twice as far as I did given the
same weather. A wet, cold, stormy summer might find things different, but not likely. The North Channel
is known for its good weather, especially in July and early August. Summer storms can come through
anytime and frontal systems often swing through weekly. Most days are sunny, warm and dry with good
winds out of the south or southwest.
Trip details:
fleece pants, pullover sweater, long jons, socks, shorts, sun shirt, underwear, sun pants and pullover,
foul weather gear, sun hat plus swim suit and personal toiletries. There was fr included three anchors
and 3/8hain pennants, four dock lines ()first aid kitAnd, a cleaning kit for the hull, dishes and self.ht
carried forward is best. Apacking system aboard the boat:
Forward in the chain locker is the rode and chain for my 8# Danforth bow anchor. , shoved forward
running lights (portable style) and my tiny boom box with CD's. These bags and items get moved to
starboard each night so I can have the full port bunk for sleeping. The tool box is also stored to port
under the cockpit seat. A few other items are stored to port under the seat also.
To starboard goes the 10# super Max anchor with its soft pail of anchor chain and line ready to the
cockpit for use as the stern hook. A Rubbermaid bin of food, the cook set and stove with fuel canisters
is stored to starboard also. Under the starboard seat are several little bins holding things like the bug
nets, candle lantern, spare parts, toilet paper and so on. Laying on the bunk is the boat hook. Along the
side are the wash boards for the companion way hatch, a piece of Sunbrella fabric for a sun shield, and
other odds and ends such as flippers, snorkel and mask. Charts are carried in a waterproof case that
can sit in the cockpit. In the chart case are the navigation tools for piloting, log book and guide books.
Maps:
Go to web sites listed for more details of the geography and information. Launch sites that are good
ones are at Sprague, Spanish and Little Current. Killarney and Birch Island also have launch ramps.
The one at Birch Island is rather shallow. Check on Lake Huron water levels before starting out and be
sure you have adequate, up-to-date charts as required by Canadian law.
Great Lakes maps:
www.americansteamship.com
Maps from space:
www.great-lakes.net/gis/maps/others
Michigan/Great Lakes info and maps:
www.michigan.gov/deq/o,1607,7-135-3313_3677-15926--,00
Fuel, groceries, launch ramps and chandleries:
Michigan
DeTour Village
Drummond Island Yacht Haven
Whitney Bay Marina, Drummond Island
Sault Ste. Marie
Ontario
Sault Ste. Marie
Meldrum Bay
Gore Bay
Little Current
Killarney
Kagawong
Birch Island
Spanish
Blind River
Thessalon
Bruce Mines
Richard's Landing
Hilton Beach
Sources:
Ports for Lake Huron and the North Channel, St. Mary's River
Well Favored Passage, current edition (constantly updated)
Charts for area cruising; maybe Richardson's book of Lake Huron and North Channel charts. Can be
ordered directly from Ottawa or USGov. Chart suppliers.
Great Lakes Cruising Club memberships are available along with detailed hand-drawn .
Box 129, 475 N. Division St.
DeTour Vlg, MI 49725
(906) 297-6802
westlund@sault.com
CIRCUMNAVAGATING AN INLAND,
SWEETWATER SEA
IN A FIFTEEN FOOT BOAT
Anne Westlund in her green hull West Wight Potter 15 "Peapod".
More people on the web knew I was planning my trip than did the folks in the village. They would have
thought I was nuts! I did it anyway and enjoyed the entire twenty-nine day voyage covering about 400
nautical miles of shoreline and open waters in my West Wight Potter 15, Peapod, and I
circumnavigated the North Channel of Lake Huron in July 2002. We saw sunshine, winds, storms,
bears, raccoons, herons, gulls, terns, osprey, bald eagles, jillions of songbirds and freighters. We
visited many bays, coves, river mouths, islands, shorelines, beaches and swimming holes. Six villages
and cities were visited. And, the trip was followed within mere days by a long sea kayak trip visiting an
area in Georgian Bay that turned out to be where we would like to sail the summer of 2003.
A review of the log of the Peapod shows there is little need to go back to see what is so clearly etched
in my mind. The sunny-bright summer days are greatly appreciated when you are north of 46 degrees
latitude. Summer often comes late and can be cold. In 2002 July presented itself as the first of the
warm days and sunshine abounded. Launched at the DeTour Village ramp area, Peapod was afloat
alone in the quiet of a very early July 1st morning. Light southerly breezes poured over the wall and
down into the slip. I walked back to her after taking my car and trailer home the two blocks up the slope
knowing that I was not allowed to leave them at the ramp area over the twenty-four hour grace period.
The ramp area has lots of parking and two free, deep-water launch ramps side-by-side with a dock
between. Leaving the car and trailer at home at no cost avoided other storage costs yet left the car
easily accessible on my return at the end of July. My trip was planned for the month - time for a trip of
exploration and visitation to one of the most beautiful areas to sail in the entire world.
Peapod was loaded with a minimum of clothing, food for several weeks in dry and tinned forms plus
fresh fruits, potatoes and onions. Boat gear included three anchors and 1/2 inch twisted nylon lines,
each having five or six feet of 3/8 chain pennants, four dock lines, two twenty-five footers and two
fifteen feet long, three bumpers (two tiny and one larger I found while sea kayaking in June), a large
first aid kit, personal toilet kit, folding bucket, hard shell bucket, cooking kit (stove, fuel, pots, pans as
for backpacking), polar tec blanket, winter weight sleeping bag, pillow, pillowcase, Thermarest camping
pad and covering case for a sheet, throw line, life vests - one inflatable and one I normally use while
sea kayaking, a foul weather pants and jacket set, sun hat, fleece hat and gloves, and so on. Of course
there was also the handheld VHF radio, a mini EPIRB, an SOS cell phone, flares, a bivy sack, signal
flags, mirrors, whistles, fire starter, matches and lighters.
In the West Wight Potter weight carried forward is best yet as a whitewater canoeist I like to keep the
bow and stern buoyant as much as possible, therefore my packing system aboard the boat. I put the
personal toilet kit and clothing forward in their duffel along with the blanket, pillow and sleeping bag.
Since I sleep to port the camping pad goes there with it's sheet on it. Also to port during the day goes
the grab bag - a waterproof gear bag used often for sea kayaking or canoeing. It has the safety gear
and electronics in it. The waterproof book bag goes there during the day too, plus the battery operated
running lights (portable style). Tools are on the portside under the cockpit seats. On the starboard are
the stern anchor, a Super Max 10# and its chain and line, the food bin, charts, companionway
washboards, bucket, cleaning supplies, camera, binoculars, foul weather gear, fleece pullover. Other
miscellaneous stuff is stored under the cockpit seat.
The trip:
Years ago I had sailed the North Channel in a 33 ft. sloop several summers. This year, 2002, it was to
be an entirely different sort of trip. I was going solo. No passengers or crew, no other boats sailing in
tandem. At the dock I turned Peapod around facing downwind, cast off and raised the jib. Slowly
underway I waited and raised the mainsail when clear of the narrow rock-lined channel avoiding the
surfacing portions of the Niagara Escarpment reaching out for my little boat. The clear water showed
me the shoals with color changes and reflected bottom structures. The main up and clear, I sailed off
across DeTour Passage with a beam wind and small sea. Peapod leapt to the challenge and scooted
across the mile of shipping lanes. A freighter was in front of us for a few photos and then was gone
down the lakes carrying taconite or grains. I listened to the VHF radio for a bit to see if I could find out
their destination: Montreal. Clearing the Passage and Black Rock Point I was soon alongside Sims
Point and rounded the buoy set off shore about half mile. Sometimes I cut that corner but only when the
sun is overhead for good in-the-water visibility. The clear waters of this region telegraph the depths
quite well.
Carrying on easterly I passed between several islands. There was little wave action and the wind was
freshening. My little West Wight Potter 15 scooted along at hull speed or higher. Soon I was eight miles
from home port and at Harbor Island. I decided that with favorable winds I would go on to Pilot Cove.
That would make a day's sail of some 28 miles. Off shore wind would urge me down the shoreline to
the little hook, Pilot Cove, at Marble Head on the very east end of the island. A north-bound downwind
sail took me around Chippewa Point on the north end of Drummond Island and along it's geologically
interesting north and east sides. I was soon out of the area of over 50 islands and out in the North
Channel waters proper. To the north is Ontario, Canada. To the south, Drummond Island, to the east
huge Manitoulin Island and behind me, the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Under me: sweetwater seas,
potable water off shore, clear as crystal and warm enough to swim in (near shore). No other boats of
any kind were in sight.
I had seen no other boats all morning by the time I rounded the little gravel spit into Pilot Cove by 1530
hrs where I dropped the stern hook and drifted into the tight bight of the cove where I stepped off into
some eight inches of water, carried the bow anchor to land and set it. Tied off I was home for the night.
I grabbed my towel and made quickly for the stony shores of the bigger waters where I stripped and
swam off the sweat of the day.
Lolling in the water was delightful. The first swim of the season. The water was crisp and felt very good
on my sun enhanced skin. Even with sunscreen, a hat and sun protection clothing I had gotten quite a
bit in the seven hours of sailing. After toweling off the awning went up, curving over the cockpit like a
wagon cover from the old days going west. Two PVC pipe poles kept the awning in shape while bungie
cords tied it down on each corner to the aft cleats and the mid-ship's cleats. I wrote up the log, read for
awhile, took food and cook kit ashore to the stone beach and prepared my supper. This was followed
by some shoreline hiking and watching another sailboat come into the bay where it anchored. I was
incredulous! I had Pilot Cove all to myself and so it stayed the entire night. Before turning in I removed
the awning so I could sleep if winds got up in the night, and I pulled Peapod out into deeper water,
letting off the bow anchor line and tightening up on the stern anchor. Hopefully I was secure from
raccoons or bears, mice or voles, shrews or ants; I turned in to sleep peacefully through the night.
The next day was a short one. I crossed the False DeTour Passage to Cockburn Island and sailed the
anchor in at the south end of the bay with the beautiful sandy shoreline. I had passed several tug boats
beautifully decked out in holiday gear. One of them had been the winner in the annual tugboat races in
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario the day before. My anchor down in the clear, warmer water was my invitation
to swim and loaf. The awning flapping in the moderate off shore breeze, I swam and read the afternoon
away. A hike along the curving bay gave me some exercise. By late afternoon the winds were brisk and
promised to quiet down for tomorrow. I turned in early after the sunset over the ghost town village of
Tolsmaville.
On July 3rd I sailed the dreaded Missassagi Passage between Cockburn and Manitoulin Islands. It did
not live up to its reputation. However the seas were running around 3-4 ft high and the winds shot up
the channel forcefully. I sailed the distance to Manitoulin with a reef in the main and a carefully held
loose mainsheet that I could ease as needed in the beam seas and steady winds. The quick crossing
led me to the first cape of the island where I was soon into Meldrum Bay to clear customs with a phone
call. Receiving my cruise number, I cast off and ran north with the off shore breezes again and some
incredibly fast sailing. The true wind was more southwest than southerly and when around Vidal Point I
had some fast sailing in flat waters along the shoreline. Screaming along would be the proper
description. I anchored in the west part of the bay near a little stream that came from beaver ponds up
river. The water was hot and I took a hot soak, and rinsed in the refreshing waters of the bay. Again,
some beach combing was my exercise. And, again I found shards of blue and white pottery, evidence
of the long time use of the waterways of the North Channel.
The next day, the Fourth of July, flag up, I sailed on into the entrance of Bayfield Sound, a large pocket
into Manitoulin Island from the north. It is broad and open, dotted with some islands toward the east
side. On the west are large drumlins and wooded hills. Some old farms dot the hillsides with open
pastures. Huge cottonwood trees can be seen along with big birch trees, old split rail fences and
occasional tumble down buildings. Deep into the sound a new log home was being raised next to a
creek spilling into a wee cove. Tempted as I was to anchor there, I crossed the sound on a quick
downwind scoot and went into Sturgeon Cove where I anchored amid large limestone rocks in
turquoise waters. On shore were herons, old fences and evidence of the cattle that used to roam there.
A large house on shore to the west side of the cove seemed occupied. I was a good half-mile away and
felt like I had my own private anchorage. I settled in with a good book and spent a windy though quiet
afternoon.
On July 5th I flew my ratty old American Flag again and waited out some stiff winds from the south,
resting and loafing, reading and napping and staying put. On the 6th I weighed anchor early. It
promised to be a long day. Again the winds were southerly but now carried humidity and haze was
settling in. Heat would come and then at a later time, rain and storms. I sailed northeast around the
huge northerly point on Manitoulin's Barrie Island in the mouth of Bayfield Sound and bore east toward
Little Current. The day sailed by. Peapod romped along with the wind abaft a'beam and the seas
gradually increased to 2-3 ft. as we entered more open waters. Toward early evening I determined I
could go through the La Cloche Passage and anchor near Clapperton Island somewhere. That would
set me up for an early arrival in Little Current where I wanted to find some fresh produce and an ice
cream cone. I found that Mowat Island offered protection way up in the north section. I tucked into three
feet of water in reeds, dropped the stern hook and hung there for the night. As I eased into the reeds I
could see 30 or 40 Sandhill Cranes on the spit, walking sedately through the shoreline's weeds and
grasses. They slowly walked into the forested island out of sight. Later as it got really dark I heard their
strange calls echo around the waters. Far in the distance were other masts moving with the winds.
They were in the true Clapperton anchorage. I was in my own space.
Being on a tiny boat the North Channel opened up to me. Privacy in anchorages, larger feeling waters,
more intimate visits along the shores, much simple living and easier handling of gear and boat. I could
go into 6-8 inches of water, tuck into spaces between rocks or into pocket beaches, get off the main
channels and enjoy doing what I love to do: beach cruise. I enjoy the margins. The edges between
water and land are full of wildlife, plants and interesting stuff, from driftwood to frogs and crawfish. The
margins are filled with diverse species that may shelter elsewhere but come to the edge to drink, or
leave the edge to feed, or find the margins home. Although I have sailed off-shore I have the most
desire to enjoy the shallows, the edges, the margin where life abounds.
On the 7th day I sailed into Little Current and came to rest at Spider Bay Marina. There are little finger
piers in shallower water for little boats like mine, inexpensive dock fees, good hot, clean showers,
toilets, lounge and a laundry. All kinds of fuel are available also as is deep water dockage for huge
yachts. The sailor who were moored on the pier where I tied Peapod were very curious about this little
green hulled boat. As a result of the comments, "What a cute boat! What is she? Where did you come
from?" I made new acquaintances who were soon to become good friends. They took me under their
wings as if I were a teenager instead of a 61 year old woman. Sailing solo I find I meet lots more people
than when I am with a friend. And, the little West Wight Potter was an attraction in and of itself. Larry
and Claire Jennings took me shopping for groceries and we enjoyed a meal together that night. Stormy
weather threatened and I ended up staying overnight. It was the first time in a marina for Peapod as we
usually anchor out.
In the morning I walked up into Little Current and breakfast at a local restaurant in the hotel on the main
street. Claire and Larry were there and gave me a ride back to the marina. Shortly after that when I was
done rigging the awning down tightly, the sky was black and heavy with clouds to the southwest and
west, oozing wind threats and heavy rain. The air took on a calm and a wait - a wait for the weather
coming in. Larry asked me if I would like to weather the storm in their sailboat's enclosure, a large
trailerable they keep in Little Current all summer. They come up from Indiana and have a summer slip
at the marina. They call the boat, Eluthera, their cottage.
As the winds gathered and stuff flew all over the marina - sand, small stones, a few huge raindrops,
some scraps of paper - lightning began to flash brightly in the west. Big, deep peels of thunder echoed
from what seemed a long distance away. Making sure that my boat was really secure, no chafe
problems imminent, I left her for Eluthera. I was not at all sure I should, however with my foulies
available under my arm I knew I could go make sure she was okay if I felt uneasy. As it was, I intuitively
felt it was okay.
The hard thunder and lightning rainstorm and high winds didn't last too long. However, the power went
out and stayed out for over six hours. No fuel could be pumped and no one moved. A few boats came
in from outlying islands and docked to wait for the electricity to come back on. All was darkness for
hours as the rains pelted and then steadily poured. We found out later on that tornadoes had touched
down elsewhere on the island. Peapod rode the storm like a trouper with no evidence of leaks or
dampness below. I had closed the top hatch but not the washboards. There was no water below. The
awning held like battleship paint. All was well. One of the nice things about a lower aspect, little boat is
lower windage. A lower mast helps too. The vane on the masthead spun and pointed stiffly but there
seemed no evidence of heeling as we watched from Eluthera a couple of slips east of Peapod. With
encouragement and a low cost slip, I stayed another night at the marina. We went out for dinner to the
hotel again and a long walk along the quay which lines the waterfront. Little Current caters to yachts of
all sizes and kinds. It is a great place to provision, meet and leave passengers, and to watch the
endless summer parade of boats moving to and from points east and west. Farquarer's ice cream
cones from the stands along the wooden walkway are to be savored as a North Channel delicacy.
Sailing east under the bridge that spans the passage I worked my way to the Mary Islands where I
explored a wrecked barge and then down to Haywood Island to anchor for the night. I poked into the
shallows of a 'tween island reed bed and enjoyed bug free breezes all night. The next day I continued
easterly into Baie Fine and anchored there for another night. I went in about five miles but not into the
pool for I heard it was full of boats. I wanted to go elsewhere anyway and continued on into MacGregor
Bay which is full of islands and is a piloting challenge. The rocks, small, old summer cottages and
wildlife are what makes it interesting. A couple invited me for tea and I enjoyed meeting them. They
come from Ann Arbor to the old cottage each summer and are the third generation owners. I spent two
nights in the MacGregor Bay islands before going into Birch Island for fuel. Motoring seems to be the
way to get around in the islands, the safest way. The little Honda 2hp, 4-stroke doesn't burn much fuel
but I don't carry much either.
Things I learned:
I learned how much gas per hour I used. I learned how far I could motor in a day easily on flat water. I
learned how long I was willing to sit at the helm and motor or sail in a day. I learned how far I could sail
in a day (not beating into winds and waves). And I learned how to take it slow yet I covered lots more
ground a great deal faster than I had thought possible. I could have gone twice as far as I did given the
same weather. A wet, cold, stormy summer might find things different, but not likely. The North Channel
is known for its good weather, especially in July and early August. Summer storms can come through
anytime and frontal systems often swing through weekly. Most days are sunny, warm and dry with good
winds out of the south or southwest.
Trip details:
fleece pants, pullover sweater, long jons, socks, shorts, sun shirt, underwear, sun pants and pullover,
foul weather gear, sun hat plus swim suit and personal toiletries. There was fr included three anchors
and 3/8hain pennants, four dock lines ()first aid kitAnd, a cleaning kit for the hull, dishes and self.ht
carried forward is best. Apacking system aboard the boat:
Forward in the chain locker is the rode and chain for my 8# Danforth bow anchor. , shoved forward
running lights (portable style) and my tiny boom box with CD's. These bags and items get moved to
starboard each night so I can have the full port bunk for sleeping. The tool box is also stored to port
under the cockpit seat. A few other items are stored to port under the seat also.
To starboard goes the 10# super Max anchor with its soft pail of anchor chain and line ready to the
cockpit for use as the stern hook. A Rubbermaid bin of food, the cook set and stove with fuel canisters
is stored to starboard also. Under the starboard seat are several little bins holding things like the bug
nets, candle lantern, spare parts, toilet paper and so on. Laying on the bunk is the boat hook. Along the
side are the wash boards for the companion way hatch, a piece of Sunbrella fabric for a sun shield, and
other odds and ends such as flippers, snorkel and mask. Charts are carried in a waterproof case that
can sit in the cockpit. In the chart case are the navigation tools for piloting, log book and guide books.
Maps:
Go to web sites listed for more details of the geography and information. Launch sites that are good
ones are at Sprague, Spanish and Little Current. Killarney and Birch Island also have launch ramps.
The one at Birch Island is rather shallow. Check on Lake Huron water levels before starting out and be
sure you have adequate, up-to-date charts as required by Canadian law.
Great Lakes maps:
www.americansteamship.com
Maps from space:
www.great-lakes.net/gis/maps/others
Michigan/Great Lakes info and maps:
www.michigan.gov/deq/o,1607,7-135-3313_3677-15926--,00
Fuel, groceries, launch ramps and chandleries:
Michigan
DeTour Village
Drummond Island Yacht Haven
Whitney Bay Marina, Drummond Island
Sault Ste. Marie
Ontario
Sault Ste. Marie
Meldrum Bay
Gore Bay
Little Current
Killarney
Kagawong
Birch Island
Spanish
Blind River
Thessalon
Bruce Mines
Richard's Landing
Hilton Beach
Sources:
Ports for Lake Huron and the North Channel, St. Mary's River
Well Favored Passage, current edition (constantly updated)
Charts for area cruising; maybe Richardson's book of Lake Huron and North Channel charts. Can be
ordered directly from Ottawa or USGov. Chart suppliers.
Great Lakes Cruising Club memberships are available along with detailed hand-drawn .
