WWPotter 15 Rigging & Sailing Tips

By

Jerry Barrilleaux

Owner of P-15 #564 "Breezy" & HMS-18 #48 "Sunshine"

The Potter 15 is about as simple as one can get on a sailboat. However, a well-tuned Potter can make a world of difference in the way she sails. This can greatly add to your sailing pleasure. In my 28+ years of P.15 sailing I have come up with several ideas that might be helpful to the new sailor in getting the most fun out of their Potter 15.

To make things clearer, I am talking about P-15's 1978 and newer. Or hull #800 and above. If you have an older model you can E-mail me and I can help you out.

Mast straightness:

The easiest way I know of for checking your mast for being vertical is to lay the mast on the ground. Then stretch the side stays towards the bottom of the mast. If the shrouds are the same length, the mast will be vertical when looking at the boat from the bow.

Mast Rake & Tension:

A P.15 mast should be vertical, or raked slightly aft when the boat is sitting in the water without crew in her. The forestay sets the tension, and I find that 1 1\2 to 2 inches of pull on the forestay to get the pin in is perfect. Once the mast is up, launch the boat and find a calm spot next to a dock. Tie a weight at the end of the main halyard and let it hang down the mast. The weight should just touch the mast, or hang back a couple of inches. This is the desired mast rake.

Mast Rake being checked on Bill Nolen's P-14 #775 "Piglet".

Once you have the mast set at the desired rake, and the forestay set to the proper tension, you are set.

Mainsheet:

Some P.15 skippers are using an aft mounted mainsheet cleat. I prefer a boom mounted (headknocker). An aft mounted mainsheet might force the skipper to sit too far aft while sailing. For correct trim, the skipper and crew should sit as far forward as possible. Also DON'T use a motor on a P.15 over 30 pounds.

Rostan RF 5 Cam Cleat Block being used for a headknocker.

Mainsail:

The mainsail should be hoisted as high as it will go, then cleat off the halyard. Then tighten the boom downhaul by pushing down on the gooseneck with your hand then cleating it off. This is especially important when using sail slugs.

Outhaul:

It's a common practice to tie a loop from the clew, around the boom and then adjust the outhaul. However, I have been doing some experimenting with this and find that if I leave out the strap and just use the outhaul I get a better sail shape. Adjust the outhaul flatter for high winds, and for light winds you need more belly. The long batten should be adjusted so it's tight. This will give you a natural airfoil in light air.

Jib-Lapper:

The jibsheets for the jib and the lapper should run outside the shrouds directly to the camcleats of the coaming. To adjust sail shape, you have to raise and lower the tack. The NEW J&J lapper should be tacked 2 to 3 inches off the deck. For windward sailing with the lapper, sheet in the lapper so the clew just touches the shroud. Then trim in the mainsail so you don't see any signs of the lapper backwinding it.

Bow Weight:

In the 2001 WWPotter 15s, International Marine started adding forward weight on the P-15's to get them on their sailing lines. I have added a 15-pound lead slug to the bottom of my chain locker along with an anchor and chain. And she still sails better if I leave the motor at home.

Sailing:

Pay close attention to the wind. Feel the tiller, feel the wind on your face. A light boat like the Potter 15 loses speed quickly if you let the sails luff. The only time you need to fall off is when you need a little more speed for tacking.

Boom Vang:

A boom vang is very important on a P-15; the large batten will cause the sail to twist at the top, spilling wind. Sailing downwind I use a tight boom vang and a Forespar adjustable whisker pole (about $70.00 at West Marine) this works for ALL headsails on BOTH Potters.

Centerboard:

A P-15 will gain speed downwind if you raise the centerboard. Just remember to lower it when you change course.

On a P-15 you can also play with the centerboard height for boat balance. I find that by raising the board up a little so it's at a 10-degree angle she sails better. Also it's a good idea to strap a bungee around the front of the centerboard lever so it can't fold back up into the trunk in the event of a capsize.

The most fun you can have sailing a P.15 is in the company of other Potters. You will quickly find out how well you are doing. And there is nothing cuter than a fleet of Potters sailing in formation!

Jerry Barrilleaux Mail Jerry

Jerry and his new Radio Controlled Model Schooner

Thanks to Judy B. for photograph.